Stud walls look easy, a frame of timber, plasterboard on both sides, done. But anyone who’s ever had to hang a radiator or align plasterboard joints knows the devil’s in the spacing.
Whether you opt for 400 mm or 600 mm centres, the choice can make the difference between a solid wall and one that flexes, cracks, or simply doesn’t line up.
For UK builders, joiners, and dryliners, getting stud spacing right isn’t just about habit. It affects board fit, acoustic performance, strength, and even compliance.
This guide gets into the reasoning behind common stud layouts, noggin placement, and fixing techniques, from a trade perspective.
What A Stud Wall Actually Is?
A stud wall is basically a skeleton made from timber or metal sections that forms the framework for internal walls.
In the UK, timber companies use CLS (Canadian Lumber Standard) timber in sizes like 38×63 mm or 38×89 mm, depending on height and load.
Metal stud walls use C-studs and U-tracks, often seen in commercial fit-outs or lightweight partitions.
Both types are the same principle, vertical studs fixed between a head plate at the top and a sole plate at the bottom, with noggins running horizontally to stiffen the frame.
Not all stud walls are load-bearing. Many are just partitioning, separating rooms or services. But even non-structural walls must withstand the stresses of fixtures, doors, and thermal or acoustic lining.
Standard Stud Spacing In The UK
When someone says “400 mm centres,” they mean the distance from the centre of one stud to the centre of the next, not edge to edge.
That matters because plasterboard sheets (usually 1,200 mm wide) are designed to fit neatly with standard spacing.
In the UK, most walls are framed at either 400 mm or 600 mm centres, occasionally 450 mm for certain board layouts or curved walls.
Those figures aren’t arbitrary; they come from building standards and plasterboard manufacturer recommendations like British Gypsum and Knauf.
At 600 mm centres, a standard 1,200 mm board will fit across three studs, centre, joint, and edge. At 400 mm centres, the board edges will fall on every second stud, giving tighter support and less board deflection.
Accuracy matters here. A few mm out at each stud can throw the whole wall out, and you’ll be fighting gaps when it’s time to board up. Good tradespeople always double-check the spacing from the centre line, not just “by eye”.
400 mm Vs 600 mm Centres: The Trade Off
Here’s where experience comes in. Both spacings have their place, but behave differently on site.
400 mm Centres give a stiffer wall. The studs are closer together, so plasterboard flexes less, perfect for tiled areas, bathrooms, or walls with fixtures like cupboards or sinks.
The tighter spacing also limits movement over time, so you’re less likely to see cracking along joints.
The downside is obvious: more studs means more timber, more time cutting and fixing, and slightly higher material costs. But in areas where rigidity matters, that’s money well spent.
600 mm Centres are lighter and faster to build. You’re saving on timber, screws, and labour, perfect for non-load-bearing partitions or rooms that don’t need reinforcement, like bedrooms or offices.
600 mm spacing with 12.5 mm plasterboard gives decent stiffness for most domestic walls. But on tall partitions or where fixtures are planned, flex can become an issue, especially with thinner boards.
If you’re unsure which to go for, base it on finish and use. Tiled walls, heavy fittings, or high traffic areas?
Go with 400 mm. Lightweight partitions or dry areas? 600 mm is fine, but never at the expense of board support.
Noggins And Their Placement Rules
Noggins are the heroes of every stud wall. These short horizontal blocks between studs stop twisting, add strength, and support plasterboard edges. Without them, a tall wall can feel hollow or unstable.
There’s no one rule for spacing noggins, but a good rule of thumb is to fit them about halfway up the wall, about 1.2m from the floor on a standard 2.4m high wall.
For taller partitions, two rows may be needed. Many plasterboard manufacturers recommend that horizontal joints between boards align directly over noggins to prevent cracking.
When fixing them, staggering their position between studs makes screwing easier and stops the frame from bowing.
For walls with fixtures like basins, radiators, or shelving, additional noggins should be planned behind those zones before boarding.
Metal stud systems achieve the same effect using punch-out cross braces or horizontal channels rather than timber blocks, keeping the frame light while still resisting twist.
Fixings, Bracing & Best Practice
A stud wall’s strength isn’t only about the timber layout, it’s also about how it’s fixed together and lined.
For timber, screws or nails can be used, but most trades favour screws for precision and less vibration. Use drywall or wood screws long enough to bite securely into the studs. With metal studs, self-drilling Tek screws are the go-to choice.
Plasterboards can be installed horizontally or vertically, depending on the height and layout. Horizontal boarding is common in domestic settings because it reduces visible joint lines and uses full board widths efficiently.
Fix screws roughly every 200–250 mm along edges and 300 mm within the field. Keep at least 10–15 mm away from board edges to prevent breakout.
Acoustic and insulation layers also play a part. Denser boards and mineral wool infill work better with tighter stud spacing.
Wider centres (600 mm) can slightly reduce sound insulation performance, as there’s more open space for vibration.
For bathroom or kitchen partitions, a moisture-resistant board (often green-faced) should be combined with a vapour barrier, especially on external walls. The tighter 400 mm spacing helps keep these boards firm under tile loads.
And always check for straightness before boarding. Even a slight bow in a stud will show once plastered, especially across longer runs.
Stud Spacing And Plasterboard Compatibility
Most UK plasterboard is 1,200 mm wide, so spacing your studs correctly ensures the edges land cleanly on a stud.
At 600 mm centres, you’ll get a board joint every third stud, while 400 mm centres give support every second one.
That extra contact helps avoid cracking and edge movement. Misaligned centres, even by 10–15 mm, can lead to awkward gaps or boards hanging unsupported at edges, which later translate into cracked joints or weak fixings.
A quick calculation makes the difference clear. A 2.4 m wall at 600 mm centres needs five studs. The same wall at 400 mm centres takes seven.
Two extra studs might not sound much, but it’s what keeps walls feeling solid, especially once fixtures go on.
The takeaway: stud spacing should follow the board, not the other way around. Always check manufacturer data sheets, they specify maximum spacing for each board type and thickness.
Common Mistakes And How To Avoid Them
A few classic errors come up time and again on site. The first is guessing stud centres without marking them out accurately.
That usually ends with plasterboard joints floating between studs, a guaranteed crack point later.
Another is forgetting noggins behind load zones. Once the wall’s boarded and skimmed, it’s too late to reinforce for a basin or wall unit. Always plan the service and fixing layout before closing the wall.
Using undersized timber is another culprit. A 38×63 mm stud might seem fine for a quick partition, but on anything over 2.4 m high or carrying heavy finishes, it’ll flex. Upgrading to 38×89 mm gives noticeably better rigidity.
And finally, rushing boarding or over-screwing edges weakens plasterboard. Let the screws pull the board tight, don’t bury them. It’s small details like these that separate a decent wall from one that squeaks or cracks six months later.
When To Use Metal Stud Systems
Metal studwork has become standard in commercial fit-outs and multi-unit housing for good reason.
It’s light, perfectly straight, and faster to install than timber. Standard metal stud walls are built at 600 mm centres, though tighter spacing can be used for double-layer boards or acoustic-rated systems.
They’re not ideal for carrying heavy loads unless reinforced with timber inserts or specialised fixings.
But for drylining, office partitions, or large residential projects, metal studs save time and weight. Installation uses self-tapping screws rather than nails or wood screws, keeping everything neat and uniform.
The only real limitation? Metal studs transmit sound more readily and can feel less “solid” under impact, something to consider in domestic settings where tactile strength matters.
Final Thoughts
Stud spacing might seem like a small detail, but it sets the foundation for how every other part of a wall performs.
Whether you’re framing a quick partition or lining out a tiled bathroom, consistency, precision, and proper bracing make all the difference.
For tradespeople who want to refine their technique without wasting materials or risking site mistakes, Tradefox offers realistic simulations of tasks like stud layout, fixing patterns, and sequencing, a smart way to sharpen your workflow off-site.
In the end, the right spacing isn’t about theory, it’s about purpose. 400 mm for strength, 600 mm for efficiency. A few extra studs today often save a lot of call-backs tomorrow.
